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Thursday, January 21, 2016

7 FOUNDATION MISTAKES YOU'RE PROBABLY MAKING

credit/by:  

No offense, but you might be doing your makeup all wrong.
Foundation mistakes - Herve Leger by Max Azria Spring 2011
beautyeditor.ca/

So if you think you're doin' it wrong (and sorry, but you probably are)... read on:

FOUNDATION MISTAKE 

#1: USING A POWDER FOUNDATION

Foundation mistakes - powder foundation

Ditch it.

I know, I know—I used to be a massive Bare Minerals fan too. And yes, mineral makeup IS supposedly better for your skin (non-comedogenic, naturally anti-bacterial and with built-in sunscreen).
The problem is that powder foundations don't give you the best finish. The look right now is very, very natural and a little bit dewy and the best way to get said look is with a liquid foundation. Powders are drying, tend to cake and can even accentuate wrinkles because they settle into the creases. Some of the ones with shimmer in them can even make your pores look larger—horrifying!
Instead, here are a few liquid foundation recommendations that I swear by...
This is my day to day go-to and the one I reach for the most:

Make Up For Ever HD Invisible Cover Foundation in 118 Flesh
My shade (Ivory) is a perfect match and it doesn't look or feel like I'm wearing heavy foundation, even though it gives amazing hi-def coverage. There is an impressive shade range, too.
This is an oil-free option that also offers plenty of coverage with a light texture:

Hourglass Veil Fluid Makeup Oil Free SPF 15
It's even better paired worn on top of their SPF 15 primer.
This next one makeup artists go crazy for—when I used to work on staff in magazines, it would always mysteriously disappear when we brought a bottle on set.

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (2)
Obviously, it photographs beautifully and the texture is to die for.

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #2: TESTING YOUR FOUNDATION ON YOUR JAW


foundation on jaw
Yes, everybody tells you to do this but I have some breaking news: you should actually test your foundation underneath the eyes, on/around the nose and at the cheek/jawline. Do it all on one side of your face so you can compare with the no-makeup side. 

The perfect shade should pretty much disappear into your skin—but if in doubt, go ever-so-slightly darker, not lighter. Erring on the side of darker shade will help cover flaws a lot better and will warm up your skin tone. Remember, nobody wants to pull an Eagle (light face, dark body) like Emily Blunt.

Emily Blunt - Golden Globe Awards 2010

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #3: 

NOT USING PRIMER UNDERNEATH YOUR FOUNDATION

In which case, welcome to the blog. You obviously must be new around here because I feel like we talk about primers All. The. Time.
Most people look 150 percent better with primer—really, they do—because it helps your foundation glide on smoother and stay put longer. (As in: it will be much less likely to slip n' slide around your face, or start to crease.) They're making really clever ones lately that can also soften the appearance of wrinkles, control shine or boost radiance.
If you're looking for oil control, this is the most mattifying primer I've ever tried, EVER:

Becca Ever-Matte Poreless Priming Perfector
I've also had good luck with this Cover FX one, which also has anti-acne benefits:

Cover FX Mattifying Primer with Anti-Acne Treatment
And then here's the Hourglass one I was talking about above:

Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer SPF 15
It feels real slippery when you put it on, but don't fret—it makes foundation go over top like a dream, and helps it last for hours. Love that it has built-in SPF.
Finally, this one from Urban Decay is a classic:

Urban Decay Pore Perfecting Complexion Primer Potion
It's light, dries down quickly and helps minimize the appearance of pores. Not ideal for dry skin, though.
PS: I know everyone raves about this primer, but I just don't get the hype. Your mileage may vary, though.

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #4: 

APPLYING YOUR FOUNDATION WITH YOUR FINGERS OR A SPONGE


Guilty as charged! I'm a longtime finger user, even though I have probably 10 different foundation brushes... but I plan to change.
The reason foundation brushes are superior is because they use far, far less product and are also ACE at blending—and that means a smoother, more natural, less cakey application. Sponges are okaaaay (I've been trialling the Beautyblender lately and it's quite nice) but the problem is that they waste a lot of product. Plus, they tend to be better at dabbing on areas where you need more coverage instead of creating a smooth, even application.
When looking for a foundation brush, make sure it's synthetic, not animal hair (you should never use animal hair with liquids). And it's a pain in the bum, but you also have to wash it regularly with either a makeup brush cleaner or a gentle baby shampoo.
Probably the best quality brushes for the price that I've come across are fromEcoTools. I've used this foundation brush for years:

EcoTools Foundation Brush
If you can spend a little more, this Bobbi Brown brush will never fail you:

Bobbi Brown Foundation Brush

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #5:

 APPLYING FOUNDATION ALL OVER YOUR FACE


liquid foundation
So not necessary, doll. The purpose of foundation is not, in fact, to cover up every square inch of your face—it's really only supposed to be used on the areas where you need it. Think: the redness around your nose/chin, the darkness underneath your eyes, the random rogue blemishes that you've been fighting by night but need to conceal by day.
Blend everything really well using your aforementioned foundation brush, and if you've selected the right shade, it should look seamless. (If you need more coverage, we're talking about concealer next...)

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #6: 

PUTTING CONCEALER UNDER, NOT OVER, YOUR FOUNDATION


woman applying concealer
Okay, this one is bad. Very, very bad. But I will forgive you if you didn't know better because there are people out there—in fact, I interviewed one on Friday—who are perpetuating this myth. (Since she was, er, representing a company that MAKES foundation, I didn't have the heart to tell her that she had it in the wrong order.)
Honestly though—what's the point of applying concealer if you're just going to blend it all away by putting foundation on top? So remember: foundation first, then concealer. Go in with a brush to dab it (a cream, not liquid) on top only where you need it. Then blend!
Here are a few of my top concealer picks...
I've been using this product for years:

theBalm TimeBalm Anti-Wrinkle Concealer
My shade (Light) is a perfect match to my skin tone, and it's got a creamy, easy-to-blend texture with good, high coverage (and anti-wrinkle benefits!).
These next two are similar in texture and colour to theBalm, except they're made from natural ingredients, including coconut oil. I've gone through a couple of these Nvey Ecos in my lifetime:

Nvey Eco Organic Erase
And then lately, I've been into the RMS Beauty version—which is very similar ingredients-wise, but maybe a touch creamier:

RMS Beauty Un Cover-Up
Finally, there is a reason this concealer is a cult beauty classic that makeup artists swear by.

Cle de Peau Beaute Concealer
It's pricey but totally worth it for the incredible texture, high coverage and seamless finish.

FOUNDATION MISTAKE #7: 

SETTING YOUR FOUNDATION WITH TINTED POWDER AND A BIG, FLUFFY BRUSH


woman applying powder
I wrote about the perils of tinted powder earlier this year, and I'll still stand by them. If you want to "set" your foundation, I strongly, strongly advise that you invest in a colourless translucent powder, which not only works for every single skin tone in existence, but will also prevent that horrendous cakey texture from messing up your otherwise bang-on makeup application.
I recommend this powder, which was one of the originals and still one of the best.  :

Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Powder
It sets your makeup really well without looking or feeling like you've got anything on your skin.
This is another option that to me feels pretty much the same as the MUFE:

It Cosmetics Bye Bye Pores HD Silk Micro Finishing Powder
Just make sure you blend well, unlike Nicole Kidman:

Nicole Kidman powder face
Okay, that particular incident may have been because HD powders show up white under flash photography, but even so... the point is that the look you want is dewy, not powdery. So I would only apply your powder in the areas where you tend to get shiny: the forehead and maybe the chin. And contrary to received beauty wisdom, don't use a big, fluffy brush to apply because you're going to deposit waaaaay too much product. Instead, go for a domed, fluffy eyeshadow brush.
And if you need to touch up during the day, please invest in some handy oil-blotting papers. Get the kind that aren't coated with powder though, or you're just going to end up back at square one.

Boscia Green Tea Blotting Linens

credit/source: http://beautyeditor.ca/2010/11/22/no-offense-but-youre-probably-making-one-of-these-7-mistakes-with-your-foundation
My Note: All products were suggested by the original writer. It will up to you whichever is right on your skin type and tone. I agree before putting on foundation you must apply primer.

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